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The Biba Story
Bus Stop
Givenchy
Ossie Clark
Mary Quant
John Bates
Sixties British boutiques
Betsey Johnson
Laura Ashley

John Bates
“All a girl needs is something to hold up her stockings”

1938

Born in Northumberland his father and eventually his brothers were miners.

1950’s

Took an apprenticeship with London
couturier Herbert Sidon – who encouraged him to study Balenciaga, Givenchy and Molyneux.

1960

Began has Jean Varon label with the intention to produce good fashion design that could be afforded on a secretary’s wage.

 

“I called it Jean Varon because at the
time an English name like John Bates meant nothing, you had to appear to be French. Jean is French for John and Varon because there was no ‘V’ in the rag trade book. Jean Varon made a good graphic image’"(John Bates quoted in ‘Boutique’ by Marnie Fogg)

1960-1965

Early work – space age fabrics, see-through panels, cut-out holes and matching accessories. Trousers, the mini-skirt and “underwear as outwear”. Empire line styles and daring see-through mesh dresses.

 

John initially found it difficult to get his designs into stores as many customers mistook his clothing for lingerie and thought it too revealing.

Whilst he was a contender for inventor of the mini-skirt Mary Quant is more famous for this item as she already had her own store “Bazaar” from which she could sell her skirts.

1964

John advocates bra-less-ness and the bare midriff.
'I think everything should show' 'Nothing should go underneath. All a girl needs is something to hold up her stockings'

1965-1966

The Avengers collection was designed by John Bates and eleven fashion retailers, who worked under licence to Jean Varon to ensure that the outfits were in the shops when the first series of The Avengers, starring Diana Rigg as Emma Peel, was screened in October 1965 – enabling fans of The Avengers to own the clothes they saw Emma Peel wear. His striking use of metallic, plastic and transparent fabrics, plus the eroticism of some of his work, attracted press attention and looked good on the screen.

1967 - 1970’s

John continued to innovate but the garments moved towards a softer, feminine look. John concurrently designed for an own-name label, which was more avant-garde and innovative. He was still designing for Varon throughout the 70s producing bright prints, floating chiffons and couture clothes.

1980’s

The John Bates label fell into bankruptcy and John quit the fashion business.  The Varon label carried on with designer Tom Bowker.

2000’s

John’s partner is John Siggins they live together in Wales where John now paints.

Those who wore John Bates:

Diana Rigg, (1970’s) Princesses Margaret and Alexandra. Dame Maggie Smith, Sian Phillips, Julie Christie, Shirley Mclaine and Dusty Springfield.